Essential Big Island: Two Step snorkeling

The Big Island has some of the best snorkeling in the state of Hawaii. Two Step is one of those places (along with nearby Kealakekua Bay). We recommend you don’t miss out on this amazing snorkeling spot.

South Kona is perhaps most famous for coffee and snorkeling. Both Two Step and Kealakekua Bay have some of the best snorkeling on the island and in the entire state. Two Step is especially popular because it’s easy to get to and even easier to jump straight into the ocean and start snorkeling.

Two Step Hawaii
Photo credit: bigislanddivers.com

Two Step is the name of the beach and also the name of the two naturally occurring steps inset into the rock at the ocean’s edge. These steps are where you enter the water. It can get crowded at peak times, so we recommend getting to Two Step as early as possible. This way you will beat the crowds and also take advantage of the calm ocean surface which is best for snorkeling. Alternatively, the end of the day can be a less crowded time to go snorkeling too.

You will find parking right at the beach itself but keep in mind this fills up quickly. On the opposite side of the road is paid parking. There is more free parking on the side of the road which approaches the National Park next to Two Step. If you park here it’s just a two minute walk down to the beach. You can also park in the National Park itself.

Entering the water is easy because of the two naturally-formed lava steps (hence the name two step). It’s mostly lava here, and there isn’t much sand. But the snorkeling is easy and there are no currents, making it a perfect place for beginners to try snorkeling. We recommend using a flotation device (either a belt, or even a boogie board) if you feel apprehensive about being in deep water (10-15 feet). Using a boogie board is a great way to simply relax and concentrate on observing the marine life.

Photo credit: Bigislandguide.com

Two Step is popular with local residents and tourists alike. Despite the lack of sand there is still shade and it makes a nice location to set up a beach chair and relax by the ocean. There is also a shallow bay to the left of the boat ramp that serves as a safe place for children to swim, or adults who aren’t confident in deeper water.

Two Step is one of the jewels of South Kona. You’ll see plenty of fish including yellow tang, butterflyfish, eel, parrotfish, and puffer fish, to name a few. You might even see dolphins and the occasional turtle. Keep in mind it’s now illegal to swim with spinner dolphins. A distance of at least 50 yards must be maintained at all times.

There are limited facilities at Two Step. There are porta potty restrooms, but no showers. There are also a few picnic tables.

Two Step is definitely an essential stop on your Big Island journey. Whether you’re a seasoned snorkeler or just a beginner, there is something for everyone at South Kona’s celebrated snorkeling spot.

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Clem’s Banoffee Pie

Banoffee Pie is a classic British dessert consisting of layers of caramel, banana and cream. Our variation reduces the amount of caramel and adds a layer of chocolate ganache. If you haven’t tried this pie before you’re going to love it! Caramel, banana and cream (and now chocolate) is a winning combination.

Ingredients

14 oz sweetened condensed milk
14 graham crackers
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
nonstick cooking spray
1 ½ cups heavy cream
1 tablespoon sugar
3 bananas, sliced

Chocolate ganache layer
½ cup heavy cream
1 cup of chocolate chips

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 400˚F (200˚C). Pour the sweetened condensed milk into a baking dish. Cover with aluminum foil and put in a larger baking dish. Fill the larger dish with hot water until it reaches halfway up the sides of the smaller dish. This technique is known as Bain-marie.

Place in the oven and bake for 90 minutes. Check the water level every so often, making sure that it reaches halfway and refilling as necessary. Carefully remove the baking dish from the hot water bath and let cool to room temperature.

Whisk the mixture (now it’s become dulce de leche!) until smooth.

Note: you can make dulce de leche by heating the whole can of sweetened condensed milk using an Instapot. Make sure you follow the instructions to do so carefully. Find out more: https://apressurecookerkitchen.com/condensed-milk-dulce-de-leche/

Reduce the oven temperature to 350˚F (180˚C). In the bowl of a food processor, combine the graham crackers and melted butter. Pulse until crackers are finely ground and the mixture has the consistency of wet sand.

Grease a 9-inch (22 cm) tart pan with nonstick spray. Add the graham cracker mixture to the tin and press evenly to cover pan.

Bake crust for 5 minutes, until golden. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool to room temperature.

Spread the dulce de leche inside the tart crust, using a spatula to smooth it into an even layer.

In a small bowl mix together cream and chocolate chips for the ganache. Microwave for 1 minute on high, stir, and then microwave on high for another 30 seconds. 

Whisk until it forms a shiny ganache.

Spread the chocolate ganache carefully on top of the dulce de leche layer.

Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or overnight, until set.

In a large bowl, beat the heavy cream until soft peaks begin to form. Add the sugar and beat until soft peaks form.

Remove the pie from the refrigerator. Place the banana slices over the chocolate layer. Top with the whipped cream, spreading evenly to cover bananas. Serve!

We hope you enjoyed our variation on the classic banoffee pie! Enjoy!

How did your pie turn out? Let us know in the comments below.

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Essential Big Island: Making the most of Mauna Kea

Mauna Kea

Essential Big Island is a series of blogs focused on sites or attractions that are a must-see for any visitor to the island.

Visiting the summit of Mauna Kea is spectacular – whether you do so for the sunrise, or the sunset. We recommend the sunset! Make the most of your visit to Mauna Kea with our guide on how to structure your mountain visit.

It’s important to plan out your itinerary carefully. You’ll want to arrive at the Visitor Information Station in good time before sunset. We recommend allowing 30 minutes to drive up from the information station, and about an hour prior to that to acclimatize to the altitude.

For example, if sunset is 7pm and you’re staying in Kona, then you should leave Kona at about 4pm and you’ll arrive at the Visitor Information Station at about 5:30pm. Acclimatize at the information station for about one hour and then leave for the summit at 6:30pm.

It’s always better to allow more time! There are rangers on site who will check to make sure you have enough fuel and are driving a 4WD vehicle before you head up. 

Magnificent Mauna Kea

The summit of the mountain was believed to be the meeting place of the Earth Mother, Papahānaumoku, and the Sky Father, Wākea, and Mauna Kea is considered to be sacred. 

Ancient Hawaiians tracked the position of the stars and understood how this related to navigation. They are thought to have used observation platforms on the summit containing stones that were used to mark the positions of the rising and setting stars.

The summit of Mauna Kea is 13,796 ft. (4,205 mts) high. But the mountain extends about 19,700 ft. (6000 mts.) below the surface of the water, making it the tallest mountain in the world from its base. The Visitor Information Station is at 9,200 ft. (2,804 mts.) and this is where you will need to acclimatize for about an hour before ascending to the summit. 

Mauna Kea telescopes

Mauna Kea telescopes
From left, the 8-meter Subaru (Japan), the twin 10-meter Keck I and II (California) and the 3-meter NASA Infrared Telescope Facility. Photo credit: Babak Tafreshi / National Astronomical Observatory of Japan

The summit of the mountain contains almost perfect conditions for viewing the stars. These include dry clear air, low temperatures, low turbulence, excellent visibility, and almost no light pollution.

Mauna Kea sunset
Mauna Kea at sunset. Photo credit: Horizon Guest House

A Trip to the summit

First, you’ll need a 4WD vehicle. If not, there are some great tours available. Then, check the conditions on the mountain by calling (808) 935 6268. There’s a pre-recorded message of the conditions and any warnings. Then you’re good to go!

Start off your journey to the summit of Mauna Kea like any good road trip – with snacks, or even better, a complete meal. We set off on a weekday after stopping at Safeway for supplies. 

We recommend picking up a light to-go meal that travels well. Take a cooler if you can. Safeway in Kona has a great selection of ready-made meals – including salads, sandwiches and sushi.

You might crave sugar at high altitude – we recommend bringing some dark chocolate!

The road out of Kona. Make sure you’ve packed warm clothes, including jackets. If you think you might struggle at high altitude you can purchase small bottles of oxygen from Longs Drug Store (CVS). We took a couple of bottle just in case.

On the Saddle Road heading to the mountain.

Don’t forget there’s a restroom stop on the way to the mountain. The Gilbert Kahele Recreation Area is located about 15 minutes before the Visitor Information Station (there are often lines at the bathroom at the Information Station, so we recommend stopping here if you need to).

It’s a beautiful scenic drive up to the Visitor Information Station.

The Visitor Information Station with the summit of Mauna Kea in the distance. The station includes information about the mountain and a small gift shop.

Dormitories that house the support staff for the telescopes are located near the information station.

Time to eat our to-go meals. Everything tastes better at altitude – especially chocolate!

You might see some local wildlife like this pheasant.

The bulk of the road from the information station to the summit is unpaved. Hang on, it can get a little bumpy! But the spectacular views of the Mars-like landscape are worth it.

The last section of the road is actually paved. The summit is close!

Just in time for sunset. Take care when you get out of the car – the high altitude affects everyone differently.

Make sure to check out the view in the other direction. The mountain casts an incredible shadow.

You won’t be able to stay up on the mountain much longer than 30 minutes after sunset. The rangers like to get everyone down relatively quickly in order to reduce light pollution from car headlights. It also makes for an easier drive back home if you can avoid the line of traffic back down the mountain.

The summit of Mauna Kea is an absolute must-visit attraction. If you haven’t rented a 4WD vehicle then it is worth booking a tour (they’ll pick you up and drop you back in Kona).

Don’t forget you can spend more time after sunset at the Visitor Information Station (the gift shop stays open until 9pm) to simply gaze at the amazing night sky!

Author: Angus Meek

Essential Big Island: Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau Place of Refuge

Essential Big Island is a series of blogs focused on sites or attractions that are a must-see for any visitor to the island.

Pu’uhonua o Honaunau, or Place of Refuge, is a National Historical Park of great significance to the island and to the state of Hawaii. From history to architecture, this is absolutely an essential stop on your Hawaii experience!

Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park is located in South Kona. Take Mamalahoa Highway (Hwy. 11) to Ke Ala o Keawe Road (Hwy. 160) – between mile markers 103 and 104 (the Honaunau Post Office is on the corner). Follow Hwy. 160 all the way down to the entrance at the bottom of the hill. The park is open daily 8:30am-4:30pm. Make sure you pick up a free brochure just outside the gift shop before you enter the park. The brochure includes a detailed, easy-to-follow map of the park. 

There is plenty of parking inside the park and a well-stocked gift shop.

What happened at Place of Refuge?

Kapu, or the laws that Hawaiians adhered too, could be violated in a number of different ways. These included when a woman eats with a man, a fish is caught out of season, or even when a commoner’s shadow falls on an ali’i.

Penalties for these types of crimes were harsh. You could face the death penalty, in which case your only recourse was to escape your captors on foot, find your way to the coast, and then swim to the Place of Refuge (the area of land bordered by the Great Wall and the edge of the coastline). Once there you could seek to be absolved by the priest for your crime.

Stop by the amphitheater to watch a film about the park

Royal grounds

The Royal Grounds were the primary gathering place for local chiefs. Here was where they would meet, hold ceremonies and negotiate during wartime. They also took part in games such as kōnane (a board game). Here is also where priests were consulted by the chiefs when guidance was required.  

The Royal Grounds with the Hālau wa’a (canoe house) in the background.

Hālau wa’a (canoe house).

Looking toward Two Step, a popular snorkeling spot.

Kōnane is a strategy game played with black and white pebbles on a stone playing surface called a papamū.

The Great Wall

The Great Wall is up to 12 feet in height, 18 feet wide and over 950 feet in length. Constructed over 400 years ago, the wall was built using dry-set masonry – a technique in which stones are placed without mortar.

Hale o Keawe

In ancient Hawaii the Royal Grounds were believed to be the center of power. The grounds contain the main temple (heiau), above, where the bones of many chiefs (ali’i) were buried. The temple retained a special kind of spiritual power, known as mana

Pahoehoe lava – a type of lava that is characterized by a smooth, billowy surface.
 

The Royal Fish Ponds

These ponds held fish that were to be eaten only by the ali’i.

The 1871 to Ki’ilae Village. The ancient trail was remade in 1871. Take a 2.25 mile hike (roundtrip) that includes ancient sites and volcanic features.

Park Highlights

There’s lots to see at Place of Refuge so we’ve picked some highlights:

  1. The Great Wall – the wall measures 12 feet tall, 18 feet wide and over 950 feet long. 
  2. Hale o Keawe – the main temple housing the bones of the chiefs. The temple is only able to be viewed from the outside, but it’s an impressive structure.
  3. Pu’uhonua – get up close to the Great Wall and then walk into the Pu’uhonua, or Place of Refuge, itself. 
  4. Keone’ele – this is a sheltered cove that was only for the use of the ali’i to land their canoes. Look out – you might see some turtles here.

Place of Refuge was also a sanctuary during other times. During war it was designated a place for children, elders, and those not involved in warfare to seek sanctuary. Kapu was officially ended in 1819 along with the custom of seeking refuge at Pu’uhonua Hōnaunau.

Make sure you visit Pu’uhonua O Hōnaunau on your Big Island adventure. Learn and discover what life was like in ancient Hawaii at one of the best-preserved historic sites in the state.

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Olive Oil Lemon Cake

This amazingly simple lemon-flavored cake is made using olive oil instead of butter. The olive oil gives the cake a unique flavor and keeps the cake moist – much longer than similar cakes made with butter. It’s easy to make and perfect for any occasion. 

This recipe is courtesy of Samantha Seneviratne at The New York Times.

Ingredients

1 cup/240mL extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the pan
2 cups/255 grams all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
1 ½ cups/300 grams granulated sugar, plus about 2 tablespoons for sprinkling
3 large eggs, at room temperature
1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon zest plus 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 ¼ cups/295mL whole milk, at room temperature

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 375F (350F convection). Grease a 9-inch round cake pan with extra-virgin olive oil. Line the bottom with parchment paper, and then oil the parchment.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, baking powder and baking soda.

In an electric mixer, beat the sugar, eggs and lemon zest until very thick and fluffy, about 5 minutes, set on high.

While the mixer is still running, slowly add in the oil and beat until combined, another 2 minutes.

Cute kitchen moment!

On duty during the making of the cake, Cleo & Ele – providing helpful and encouraging feedback via many cute poses. More Cleo and Ele

Reduce speed to low, and add milk and lemon juice. Gradually add the flour mixture and beat until just combined.

Transfer the batter to the cake pan. Option to sprinkle the top with about 2 tablespoons sugar.

Bake the cake until a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes.

Transfer to a rack to cool for about 20 minutes, then run a knife around the edge to help release the cake from the pan.

This cake is perfect served with whipped cream or Greek yoghurt. 

How did your cake turn out? Let us know in the comments below.

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The Ho’oulu Farmers Market & Artisans Fair

Make sure you stop by one of the best arts & crafts markets on the island! The Ho’oulu Farmers Market & Artisans Fair includes a range of locally made and grown products.

This farmers market located just south of Kailua-Kona has been operating for 13 years. Gail and Greg Smith, along with founder Kuku Keala Ching, created the market and artisans fair. The market is held on the front lawn of the Outrigger Kona Resort and Spa beside Keauhou Bay near Kailua-Kona. The market operates on Wednesdays and Fridays between 9am-2pm.

What you'll find

At this market you’ll find locally grown coffee, produce, seasonal fruit, macadamia nuts, jams, bakery items, local arts and handmade crafts. Live music is also a feature.

Ho’oulu means ‘to grow’ in Hawaiian and the market is one of the longest-standing farmers markets in Kona.

When and where?

The market operates on Wednesdays and Fridays, 9am-2pm. Visit bigislandmkt.com for more information and a list of vendors.

The Ho’oulu Farmers Market & Artisans Fair is a great market in a lovely location, on a large lawn space in Keauhou Bay. We found that the market’s focus on 100% Big Island made, to be a big attraction – for visitors and local residents alike. It does cater more to the arts and craft than the fresh produce seen at other markets, but this is definitely a big plus. A great place to find genuine Hawaiian arts and crafts!

For a full list of Big Island farmers markets check out our blog post Your Guide to Big Island Farmers Markets or download our Timetable of Big Island Farmers Markets.

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Hawaii’s Amazing Kukui Nut

The little-known state tree of Hawaii is the kukui nut tree. The tree is common throughout the Hawaiian Island chain and features prominently in Hawaiian culture and mythology. Used for medicinal purposes, Hawaii’s amazing kukui nut is also polished and turned into spectacular black leis.

Where did the kukui nut tree come from?

The kukui tree originally arrived in Hawaii along with the first Polynesians. They traveled to Hawaii with the seeds of the tree in their canoes. The kukui nut tree is also known as the candlenut tree because the early settlers used the kukui nut for candles. Canoes were constructed from the wood of the kukui tree. The root of the tree was used in the process of making black paint. The paint was then used to decorate tapa cloth. By 1959 it was designated the official tree of Hawaii.

The Kukui nut

The kukui nut is used for a number of different purposes. The oil extracted from the nut was used to coat fishing nets and to water-proof canoes. The oil was also used for sore muscles, a balm for burns, and a medicine for other skin ailments. The oil was also used as an ingredients in soaps and lotions. The outer shell of the nut was used in the creation of natural dyes for tattoos.

In order to use the nut as a candle the nuts were gathered and placed along the middle part of a coconut palm frond. They were then lit and then burnt one at a time. In this way, ancient Hawaiians were able to use the burning nuts to tell the time since each nut took about 15 minutes to burn.

The nuts can also be turned into a spice. They are first roasted and the inside of the nut is turned into a spice called inamona. It also had another medicinal use – excess consumption of the inside of the nut has a laxative effect!

(The photos below show the kukui nut in stages, from when it’s first picked fresh, then as it ages, as the shell breaks away, and finally the nut itself).

Kukui nut leis

In order to create the famous kukui nut leis, the nuts are collected then sanded, buffed and eventually polished until they produce a dark brown or black color. The leis themselves are often used by hula dancers, or exchanged by couples at marriage ceremonies. Kukui nuts have also been used as prayer tokens. They were thought to capture a person’s spiritual energy. The kukui nut leis were often worn by Kahunas (priests) and the aili’i (royalty).

Hawaii’s amazing kukui nut has a wide variety of uses but there’s nothing like a beautifully polished kukui nut lei! 

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Restaurant review: Menehune Restaurant

Menehune Restaurant is located on Mamalahoa Highway in South Kona, just south of Captain Cook. They serve a great variety of breakfast and lunch dishes. Open from 6am to 3pm. A handy pitstop on your journey south!

We arrived for lunch early in the week and there were plenty of tables. There is also easy parking in front of the restaurant. The service was super friendly and the menu is extensive.

The menu

For breakfast choose from – a range of omelettes or waffles, or go for their classic breakfast options – like biscuits and gravy, a breakfast burrito, a wrap, or a turkey & Swiss croissant. For lunch choose from sandwiches, wraps, burgers, salads or fish and chips.

What we ordered

(Above) Fish and Chips – beer batter crispy fresh caught fish, French fries, citrus slaw, and tartar sauce ($26.95)

(Above) Ono sandwich with avocado and slaw ($29.95)

The fish and chips were tasty and the portion was large. The Ono sandwich however, was overpriced for what it was and wasn’t as flavorful as expected. This was disappointing. We do like to support local businesses but the prices at Menehune Restaurant are on the steep side. If you’re looking for a lunch spot on your way out of Kona there are other restaurants to choose from such as the Coffee Shack that might be a better option in this area. 

(*Please note, we haven’t tried their breakfast menu).

Menehune Restaurant

84-5227 Mamalahoa Hwy 
Captain Cook

Hawaii 96704

Ph. 808 238 0627

Hours: Mon – Sun, 6am – 3pm

https://www.menehunecoffee.com/restaurant/

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Parasailing Kona

Parasailing is a fun way to get out on the water, to get above the water, and to get some amazing views of Kailua-Kona and the surrounding coastline. We give you all the details on how it works and where to book to parasail your way above Kona.

(Check out the video below of our recent parasailing adventure!)

Once out on the boat you are strapped into the harness containing a nylon seat and a bar in front. The parasail is inflated and the speed of the boat is increased. As this occurs the parasail picks you up and you float up and back into the air. The process is smooth and easy.

As you float away from the boat the sound of the engine fades and you are left with simply the sound of the wind, and the gentle creak of the ropes attached to the sail.

The entire experience lasts about ten minutes. During this time the boat slows in order to bring you down closer to the water before sending you back up into the air again. At the end of the parasail they carefully winch you back in, at which point you float back onto the boat, landing on your feet.

Our captain and assistant were friendly and engaging, and the views of Kona and the coastline were amazing!

(*Special thanks to our friend Rob for taking the video of his tandem parasail with Clem!)

UFO Parasail

UFO Parasail offers parasailing at competitive prices and at two different heights (either parasail to 800 or 1200 ft). Book online or give them a call.

Parasailing Kona Hawaii

Check-in: Kailua Pier, next to the Courtyard Marriott King Kamehameha Hotel lobby. Look for the blue umbrella attached to our boat trailer on the left hand side of the pier.

Parking: Parking is available at the Courtyard Marriott King Kamehameha Kona Beach Hotel. UFO offers discounted parking validation for the self parking section, 3 hours for $2. Regular parking fees are $10 per hour and $25 per day without UFO validation.

Parasailing Big Island Hawaii

Pricing:

800 Ft Express Soaring
Per Person
$116

1200 Ft Out of This World
Per Person
$136

Observer
Per Person
$79

Private Charter
$1199

Parasailing Kona is a great experience, don’t miss out on seeing Kailua-Kona from a unique perspective!

**Please note this is not a paid promotion for UFO Parasail, we just had a great experience with them!**

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Restaurant review: Taka Sushi Grill Chinese Cuisine

Taka Sushi Grill Chinese Cuisine is tucked away in the Coconut Grove Marketplace on Ali’i Drive. They serve a great selection of sushi as well as Chinese dishes. Open all day for lunch and dinner, this quiet restaurant is great for a quick lunch or a dinner feast!

We arrived early in the week for an early lunch and were seated quickly. The restaurant has only a few tables, plus seating at the counter, although there is a back room for large groups. Unless you’re seated at the table by the window there aren’t views of the ocean. Parking is easy, the Coconut Grove Marketplace almost always has adequate parking in the lot behind the marketplace, and it’s just a short walk to the restaurant.

The service is good and the only problem we had was deciding on what to choose from their vast menu!

The menu

A large selection of sushi rolls, sashimi/nigiri as well as chow mein noodles, chicken and pork dishes.

What we ordered

(Above) Dublin Roll – Spicy tuna crabmeat topped with yellowtail and avocado ($14.95). Unagi ($6.95) and Seared Sake (Nigiri) ($7.95).

(Above) Sesame Balls – sticky white flour dough filled with a sweet paste ($6.25).

(Above) Edamame ($5.75).

(Above) Sunset Blvd Roll – Spicy tuna and yellowtail crunch with unagi spicy sauce ($13.95).

(Above) Dragon Roll – Crabmeat mix, shrimp tempura and eel, topped with avocado. Served with eel sauce and tobiko ($14.95).

Taka Sushi is a great place for fresh sushi. All of our dishes were excellent,  in particular the eel. The only disappointment was the heavily salted edamame but that’s just a personal preference. If you’re looking for sushi for lunch or dinner near the Kona waterfront, be sure to head to Taka Sushi.

Taka Sushi Grill Chinese Cuisine

75-5803 Ali’i Dr B5, Kailua-Kona

Hawaii 96740

Ph. 808 491 2321

Hours: Mon – Sun, 10:30am – 10:30pm

https://www.takaorder.com

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