Your Big Island Itinerary: South Point to Hilo

South Point 1 HGH Hawaii 2
South Point looking toward Mauna Loa

Heading south from the Kona Coast and need a quick itinerary? We have you covered. We outline the major attractions, where you should stop, and the best way to do it – especially if you’re pressed for time.

South Point Turtle Hawaii
Turtle at South Point

South Point

Naalehu Hana Hou Cafe Hawaii
Hana Hou Cafe

Na'alehu

  • Punalu’u Bakery: stop here for their famous malasadas and sweet bread.
  • Hana Hou Cafe: across the street, make it a lunch stop at this local favorite with a great lunch menu and delicious pies.
  • Don’t forget the speed limit: it’s posted at 25 mph due to two nearby schools.
Photo credit: thishawaiilife.com

Scenic Lookout

  • Only a mile south of Na’alehu is the Haleokane scenic lookout with dramatic coastal views which are worth a stop for photos.
Black Sand Beach turtle Hawaii
Turtle at Black Sand Beach

Punalu'u Black Sand Beach

  • Located just off the highway this is where you’re most likely to see turtles having a nap on the beach. Park at the souvenir shack. The road to the beach is a loop, so when done continue along and you’ll get back on the highway to Volcano. 
kau coffee
Photo credit: bigislandguide.com

Ka'u Coffee

  • A relatively new coffee producer with a visitor’s center. Located about 5 miles from Black Sand Beach, turn left at the ‘Pahala’ sign. At the T intersection turn right and proceed about 3 miles.
Buddhist temple
Photo credit: nechung.org

Buddhist Temple

  • Located another 2 miles from Ka’u Coffee, take a left at the next T intersection and the temple is located about another 200 feet. For more information on the temple https://www.nechung.org

Volcano National Park

  • Head straight for the visitor’s center after entering the park. Across the street is the Volcano Lodge, with views of the crater. Next to the visitor’s center is an excellent art gallery with a wide range of items locally made.
Photo credit: Hawaiianislands.com

Volcano Village

  • Turn right when exiting the National Park and proceed about 1 mile, then turn left – this is the main street of Volcano Village. There is a gas station, a tiny grocery store and 3 decent restaurants, including Thai Thai.

Akasuka Orchids

Pineapples Hilo Hawaii HGH
Pineapples Restaurant

Hilo

Donkey Life: Poncho and Lefty

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Poncho and Lefty

More than ten years ago we added to the Horizon animal family with the first of two donkeys. Poncho was the first addition and soon after we added Lefty. Both donkeys were born in the wild but were captured when they were young. They are quite tame and love being fed with carrots or papayas by the guests.

They look so much alike that while we can’t be certain we’re pretty sure they’re brothers! They’re inseparable and you’ll often find them grazing the pastures together at Horizon Guest House.

Donkey Big Island Hawaii
Lefty

Donkeys don’t need to be shoed like horses. Donkeys tend to have tougher hooves. This is most likely because of their wild ancestor, the African Wild Ass, that evolved in dry, mountainous environments. Studies have shown that walking causes less internal stress to the hoof of the donkey than it does to that of horses.

Donkeys are smart. Not only is a donkey stronger than a horse of a smilier size, but donkeys have an amazing memory – they can recognize environments, as well as other donkeys, from more than twenty years prior. And just in case you thought donkeys looked less than alert, they’ve been shown to be safety conscious too – tests have proven a donkey will not do something it thinks is unsafe.

Donkeys don’t like dogs so much and this might be an evolutionary hangover. It’s been suggested that to a donkey a dog resembles a wolf and therefore remains a threat. Donkeys will often protect the herd from anything it considers to be dangerous, whether that herd includes other donkeys, horses, sheep or goats.

Donkey Big Island Horizon Guest House
Lefty with Gary the Goat

Origins of donkeys on the Big Island of Hawaii

Originally brought to Hawaii as work animals on coffee farms and agricultural plantations, the donkey population soon increased and wild donkeys were, until relatively recently, a common sight.

Wandering over the Big Island unchecked for almost the last 40 years, it was only in 2016 that the Humane Society had a big drive to place the remainder of these donkeys into safe, happy homes, either here on the Big Island or even on the mainland. Wild donkeys can be challenging to train so it was a requirement that all those that adopted donkeys could provide ample space and social contact for the animal.

And the key requirement of adopting a donkey? You’ve got to have two! Donkeys are incredibly social animals, so if they can’t have another donkey to keep them company then another animal nearby is a must.

Make time during your stay to visit with our farm animals – they love the company, a scratch under the chin and a friendly pat, and of course a vegetable snack! We always have something on hand to feed them.

Donkeys HGH Hawaii
Donkeys HGH Hawaii 2
Author: Angus Meek

Mark Twain on the Big Island

Honolulu mid-19th century. Photo: Courtesy of the Hawai‘i State Archives

Mark Twain would spend four months in the Hawaiian Islands – traveling to Oahu, Maui, and the Big Island – while writing letters about his travels for the Sacramento Union. Letters from his time on the Big Island provide an interesting view of the island as it was in the 1860s.

Mark Twain, age 31 (Abdullah frères, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons)

When Mark Twain first sighted the shores of Hawaii Island he was impressed by the imposing size of Mauna Loa and Hualalai, in particular Mauna Loa, describing the ‘rays of glittering snow and ice, that clasped its summit like a claw’. On arrival in Kailua-Kona he was struck by the sleepy nature of what was then just ‘a little collection of native grass houses reposing under tall coconut trees’.

Mark Twain arrived on the Big Island in July 1866, having traveled from Honolulu where he had been based for some time. After arriving in Kona, he traveled on horseback south to Kealakekua Bay. The road south at this time was overgrown, with the route veering inland, out of sight of the ocean, and the path; shaded by ‘trees, whose great boughs overarch the road and shut out sun and sea and everything, and leave you in a dim, shady tunnel, haunted with invisible singing birds and fragrant with the odor of flowers’.

Kealakekua Bay and Captain Cook's Monument. Illustration taken from Roughing It by Mark Twain (1872)

Twain believed that Kona coffee had a ‘richer flavor than any other’ and noted that the coffee industry had been plagued by a recent ‘blight’ while exports of coffee remained insignificant compared to exports of sugar. In 1865, 263,000 pounds of coffee were exported from the islands compared with more than 15 million pounds of sugar. Oranges were also an important industry at the time with approximately half a million oranges exported in 1865, mostly to California. Twain considered that ‘there are no finer oranges grown in the world’ than those grown on the Kona Coast.

When he arrived in Kealakekua Bay he was greeted by a summer rain and ‘two magnificent rainbows’. It was here he visited the spot where Captain Cook was killed, and tried in vain to imagine Cook’s last moments but ‘could not do it’.

Traveling on by canoe to Honaunau, he was struck by the immensity of Mauna Loa, the ‘long mountain with its rich green forests stretching up into the curtaining clouds’. Dolphins surrounded the canoe, ‘arching over a wave and disappearing, and then doing it over again… like so many well-submerged wheels’.

While visiting Place of Refuge (Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau) he walked part of the King’s trail, remarking with surprise at the ‘considerable degree of engineering skill’ of the paved pathway, and that it reminded him of the ancient roads ‘out of Rome’.

1866 Volcano House (National Park Service, HAVO Archives, Photo 4781, Courtesy of Bishop Museum)

Twain continued on by boat south to Kau and then via mule to Volcano where he stayed at Volcano House which had only just opened about three months prior. He was surprised at ‘finding a good hotel in such an outlandish spot’. He remained in awe while observing the simmering volcano at night:

‘It was ringed and streaked and striped with a thousand branching streams of liquid and gorgeously brilliant fire! It looked like a colossal railroad map of the State of Massachusetts done in chain lightning on a midnight sky. Imagine it––imagine a coal-black sky shivered into a tangled network of angry fire!’

Twain declared that his ‘jaunt through Kona will always be to me a happy memory’.

 

For further reading about Mark Twain’s time in Hawaii see Mark Twain’s Letters from Hawaii. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1975.

Pure Kona Green Market in Captain Cook

The Pure Kona Green Market operates every Sunday from 9am-2pm, and is dedicated to supporting local farmers, crafters and also promoting sustainable agriculture.

The market is held in the parking lot of the Amy B. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden in Captain Cook, approximately 12 miles south of Kona on highway 11. The market features live music, and the garden itself is also open during the market hours.

The market includes vendors selling a range of food including, honey, Korean food, fresh produce, sweet buns, pizza, fresh bread, Thai food, coffee, mac nuts, dried fruit, chocolate, shaved ice, fresh fish, and more.

Herbal products, essential oils, handmade soaps, and jewelry are also sold at the market.

Get there early to secure parking. There is more parking behind the market itself.

There are also plenty of local artists, working in a variety of mediums from wood to pottery, photography and more. There are plenty of opportunities to purchase locally made gifts.

How to get there

Located in Captain Cook directly opposite the Manago Hotel, in the parking lot of the Amy B. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden.

Pure Kona Green Market

Pure Kona Green Market

Hours: Sunday 9am-2pm

https://www.purekonagreenmkt.com 

What’s in a name? The history of the town of Captain Cook

Captain Cook, Hawaii
Photo credit: By Ivtorov - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, Link

Located in the district of South Kona, about 20 minutes south of Kailua-Kona, the town of Captain Cook is nestled in the Kona coffee belt and covers around 12 square miles with a population of approximately 3,400 people. Before the 1960s much of the land in the area was part of the Kealakekua Ranch, originally founded by Henry Greenwell in the 1850s.

Captain Cook Coffee Company Hawaii
Photo credit: imagesofoldhawaii.com

The town was originally named after the British explorer, Captain James Cook, who was killed on the shores of nearby Kealakekua Bay in 1779. The town was so-named due to the fact that the post office for the district was located in the Captain Cook Coffee Company building in the early 1900s, and so became the Captain Cook post office. The Captain Cook Coffee Company dominated the coffee industry in the area at the time by acting as one of the intermediaries between the coffee farmers and the coffee market.

Captain Cook Monument Big Island Hawaii
Photo credit: hawaiilife.com

The Captain Cook Monument, which is a white obelisk 27 feet in height, was installed in 1874 and is located near the site of his death. The land on which the obelisk sits is in fact owned in the name of the British Consul General. Inverted cannons surround the monument and were added along with a number of coconut trees. In the area behind the obelisk, within the forest, are the ruins of the ancient Hawaiian village of Ka’awaloa. Access to the obelisk is via the Ka’awaloa Trail, a 3.6 mile hike down to Kealakekua Bay.

Mid-19th C. engraving of Kaawaloa
Mid-19th C. engraving of Ka'awaloa Village, Kealakekua Bay

In early 2022 a resolution petitioning to rename Captain Cook as Ka’awaloa did not precede past the committee stage. The resolution would have renamed the area for its original historical name. However, the measure was deferred indefinitely. Prior to Captain Cook’s arrival the area was known as Ka’awaloa for the Hawaiian village as well as the royal residence which was also in the area.

Top 5 hiking trails on the Kona Coast 2024

Captain Cook trail Kona
Captain Cook Monument trail / Photo credit: Lang Parker

Explore the Big Island by foot by taking a hike during your stay on the Big Island. There are plenty of spectacular hiking trails on the Kona Coast – these are our top 5

1. Captain Cook Monument Trail

The Captain Cook Monument trail is 1.8 miles each way. We recommend you start your hike early, taking care on the trail as you descend down into the bay – look out for wild pigs and goats (don’t worry they’ll stay clear of you). Pu’uhonua o Honaunau (Place of Refuge) will be visible once you emerge from the tall elephant grass that surrounds the trail for the first mile or so. Toward the end of the trail there are two paths – one directly down to the bay, and the other to the monument. The change in elevation is 1300 ft. so be prepared for the return hike by making sure you bring plenty of water, sunscreen, appropriate clothing and footwear. Don’t forget your snorkeling gear – Kealakekua Bay has some of the best snorkeling in Hawaii.

Fun fact: The land within the chained-off area surrounding the Captain Cook Monument is actually the only remaining British territory in the United States.

Getting there: The Captain Cook Monument trail is approximately 12 miles south of Kailua-Kona. Turn onto Napo’opo’o Road from Highway 11 and the beginning of the trail is about 50 yards from the turn off. Parking is on the roadside.

Drive time from Horizon: 20 minutes north

Captain Cook trail
Photo credit: Horizon Guest House

2. Makuala O'Oma Trail

Makuala O'Oma Trail Kona Hawaii
Photo credit: https://bit.ly/2Dw9NrN

The Makuala O’Oma trail is a 1.5 mile loop trail located at the Makahi Street trailhead above Kailua-Kona. There are a number of additional trails accessed from this starting point but this loop is perfect for hikers of all abilities. The track cuts through lush forest, remaining shaded and cool the entire way – the temperatures are significantly lower at this elevation (3500 ft.) than in Kailua-Kona. We recommend using a map (alltrails.com provide comprehensive maps) or GPS on your phone, since some of the trails are not well marked.

Fun fact: In the mid-1990s the Hawaii State Department of Forestry and Wildlife, in partnership with TREE (the Tropical Reforestation & Ecological Education organization), began a reforestation program for koa trees in the area.

Getting there: Head out of Kailua-Kona on Kaloko Drive and turn onto Makahi Street. The trailhead is at the end of the street. Park on the side of the road.

Drive time from Horizon: 55 minutes north

Makuala O'Oma Trail Kona Hawaii 2
Photo credit: Hawai'i Birding Trails https://bit.ly/2Dw9NrN

3. Makalawena Beach Trail

Makalawena beach Kona Hawaii 2
Photo credit: Erin Hinz

What could be better than a hiking trail to one of the most beautiful beaches on the island! Makalawena Beach is part of Kekaha Kai State Park and the hike is approximately a 4 mile round trip. From the parking area (see the Getting there section below) walk west on the road where you’ll eventually find a gate just north of Makalawena. The beach is another quarter mile from the gate. Don’t forget to stay on the beach as the surrounding area is private property.

Fun fact: Kekaha Kai State Park comes from the Hawaiian phrase ke kaha kai, which means ‘the shore line’.

Getting there: You can hike to Makalawena Beach from the north or the south. We recommend the hike in from the north. From Highway 19 north of Kailua-Kona turn off onto the dirt road just south of the road to Kua Bay – between mile markers 88 and 89. Park just off the highway before the road conditions get rough (4WD vehicles may travel farther but we don’t recommend it).

Drive time from Horizon: 57 minutes north

Makalawena beach trail Kona Hawaii 1
Photo credit: Donnie MacGowan

4. Pu'u Ku'ili Trail

Pu’u Ku’ili is the cinder cone clearly visible from highway 19 north of Kona. An easy hike, this short walk is perfect to begin or end the day – and an incredible location to view the sunrise or the sunset. The trail approaches the cone by ascending the western ridge to the summit. From the small parking area below, this hike is less than half a mile, with an elevation change of only 175 feet. Tip: Combine this mini-hike with the longer hike to Makalawena beach.

Fun fact: Don’t stay too late, the gates to Kua Bay shut at 7pm. If you want to arrive for the sunrise, park on the side of the road near the locked gates and walk in.

Getting there: From highway 19 take the paved road to Kua Bay, between mile markers 88 and 89. Follow the paved road for a half mile until you pass Pu’u Ku’ili. There is a small parking area to the left – either park here, or farther down at the Kua Bay parking area and walk back up the road.

Drive time from Horizon: 59 minutes north

5. Manukā Nature Trail

Manuka Nature Trail
Photo credit: W Nowicki CC BY 3.0, Link

The Manukā Nature trail is part of the Manukā Natural Area Reserve and the trailhead is at the Manukā State Wayside Park. This is a 2 mile loop trail, and includes a pit crater. Take care on the track, the terrain is quite rocky and can be challenging. Allow a couple of hours to complete the loop.

Getting there: Manukā State Wayside Park. Mamalahoa Highway (Highway 11), 19.3 miles west of Na’alehu.

Fun fact: The Manukā State Wayside Park contains an arboretum (a botanical collection of trees) originally planted in the mid-19th century and now boasts more than 40 species native to Hawaii.

Drive time from Horizon: 28 minutes south

Manuka Trail Hawaii Pit Crater
Photo credit: Jeremy Dye
Author: Angus Meek

Top 5 sights on the Big Island

Two Steps Horizon Guest House Big Island Hawaii
Two Steps

1. Snorkel at Kealakekua Bay or Two Steps

Snorkel both or just one – both are fantastic. Kealakekua Bay is one of the best places to snorkel in Hawaii. An easy drive from Horizon Guest House then hike down to the Captain Cook monument and snorkel, or make a day of it on a commercial boat such as the Fair Wind snorkel cruise.

Just arrived and want to get in the water straight away? Two Steps is only minutes from Horizon Guest House. We have snorkels and masks on hand for you to use and you’ll be swimming with yellow tangs in no time.

Easy for beginners Two Steps is so-named because of the natural rock steps used to access the water.

Place of Refuge Big Island Horizon Guest House Kona
Place of Refuge

Tip: Don’t forget to visit Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park (translated as Place of Refuge) on the left side of the bay.

2. Volcanoes National Park

Less than 1.5 hours away Hawaii Volcanoes National Park contains some of the most unique geological, biological, and cultural landscapes in the world, including the summits of two of the world’s most active volcanoes – Kilauea and Mauna Loa. 

Volcano Big Island Hawaii Horizon B&B

We recommend you make the visitor center your first stop on arrival to find out how active the volcanoes are and for the latest tips on the best vantage point. Whether it’s a crater rim drive or a serious hike there’s lots to see at the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

Make a day of it and have lunch at one of the restaurants in the village of Volcano. Don’t forget to check out the Volcano Art Center Gallery within the park for some amazing local artwork.

3. Mauna Kea

Mauna Kea Big lsland Hawaii Horizon Guest House Captain Cook

To really experience the wonder of Mauna Kea it’s best to time your visit at dusk to enjoy the amazing sunset and then, on a clear night, the starry night sky! You’ll need to stop at the Visitor Information Station at 9,200 ft. to not only check the status of the summit but most importantly to adjust to the change in altitude – in order to drive from sea level to the summit at 14,000 ft. in 2 hours it’s important to acclimatize.

Make sure you allow enough time to get there – check with Clem on the timing and how to work it in to your day out – the summit opens half an hour before sunrise and closes half an hour after sunset. A stop to stargaze at the Visitor Information Station on the way down is a must.

Tip: Don’t forget your jacket! It gets cold up there, so warm clothes are a important – we have jackets on hand if you need one.

4. Waipi’o Valley

They filmed the end of the movie Waterworld here and when you visit it’ll feel like stepping into another world. Meaning curved water in Hawaiian, Waipi’o Valley is a magical place which can be enjoyed from the scenic lookout. 

Waipi'o Valley Big Island Horizon Guest House

5. Hāpuna Beach

Hapuna Beach Big Island Hawaii Horizon Guest House

White sand beach, turquoise water – it’s the classic Hawaiian beach and it’s here on the Big Island. An easy drive north from Horizon Guest House Hāpuna beach is about half a mile long, often sun-drenched, and is shaded with trees and a picnic pavilion.

Tip: Arrive early to find a good park and a shaded spot on the beach.

5 ½. Circle the Big Island

So we cheated – just a little. It’s hard to squeeze the best into a top 5 and your trip to the Big Island wouldn’t be complete without a road trip around the island. Check with us on itinerary recommendations and how to make it work with your stay.

Author: Angus Meek

The Amazing Keitt Mango

Last Updated on December 30, 2024 by Angus.
Keitt Mango tree

The amazing Keitt mango is a large variety – a massive serving of delicious, mango sweetness. There are 5 different mango varieties currently grown at Horizon Guest House, and one of the best is the Keitt.

Mango harvest

There are 40 different varieties are grown on the islands, and of these there are about 10 which produce the bulk of the mangos supplied. The Keitt is a late harvest variety. It usually ripens from August through October, and even into November. Other mangos here on the property, and state-wide in general, are usually finished by July or August.

Keitt Mango Sliced Open

The Keitt mango

The Keitt mango is large, easily weighing between 2 to 4 pounds each! This variety doesn’t change color to indicate that it’s ripe. In the past we would wait for the expected color change before picking – the Keitt’s green skin will stay green, even if it’s ripe – and then the fruit would fall to the ground, turning to mush from the bruising.

Keitt Mango Big Island Hawaii

Make sure the mango is ripe by pressing gently on the skin – it should give slightly. The mango may need to sit for a few days after picking to ensure it has ripened enough. Don’t store mangos in the fridge as they don’t like the cold. The best way to prepare a mango is to slice your way around the seed, cutting the flesh in a cross-hatch pattern.

Keitt Mangos fruit bowl Big Island Hawaii
Keitt mangos, bananas, lemons, limes, avocados and rambutan (red & spiky)

History of the Keitt

The Keitt mango originated from a seedling of the Mulgoba cultivar and was named for Mrs J.N. Keitt who planted the first seed in Florida in 1939. By the mid-1940s it was being grown commercially. This Keitt is also found throughout Central and South America as well as Hawaii.

Mango bread with cranberries

The trees grow to a medium size, allowing them to bear the heavy fruit they produce. The flesh itself is sweet, low in fiber, a thin seed, and the skin is mostly green with a purple or red tinge. This variety is anthracnose resistant, this means it is resistant to a fungal disease causing dark lesions. The fruit also has a long shelf life.

The versatile mango

The mango can be used to flavor pies, jam, chutney, ice cream, sorbets, relishes, preserves, juices as well as being used in a wide array of baked goods. But nothing beats the fresh fruit, especially when it’s chilled. A fresh mango topped cheese cake, or served alone with spoonful of vanilla ice cream… delicious! Here in Hawaii, mango bread is very popular as a fruit substitute for banana. When mangos are in season we often make mango flavored bread (with cranberries, pictured above) and mango muffins – a great addition to the breakfast menu.

Mango muffins

Mango wood

Mango wood has even become a popular wood both for furniture and also art objects. Mango trees reach maturity for harvesting at between seven to fifteen years. The wood itself does not require intensive processing. Another reason for its popularity is that it has a very similar look to teak.

Mango wood is sustainable. The wood is already a by-product of the industrial mango fruit industry and the trees are quick to mature compared to other trees. Once the trees have finished fruiting they are harvested for their wood and then replaced with the next crop of mangos.

Mango wood

Besides being an attractive tree, it produces a beautiful wood. Local craftsman use mango (when they can get it) to produce wooden art work as well as beautiful bowls and boxes (as pictured). Mango doesn’t have the same cache of koa, but because there is so little available, it ranks up there as far as desirability among the wood workers.

Mango wood boxes
Author: Angus Meek

Koa: The Big Island’s Treasured Wood

Koa Pig Board Horizon Guest House Hawai
Pig board showing example of 'compression or fire' very rare even for curly koa

To the casual visitor, Hawaii is sunshine and beaches. But it’s more than that. If you visit often, or for long enough, or are lucky enough to live here, you’ll discover a unique product that is grown only in Hawaii (endemic) – and no, it’s not taro, lilikoi, or even lychee: it’s Acacia koa, simply known here as koa.

Koa stand Horizon BnB Kona Coast Hawaii
Plant stand by Russ Johnson

In ancient times, it was so prized that it was made kapu, prohibited for anyone to possess except for the royal class (ali’i). Upon the death of King Kamehameha in the late 1700’s, the kapu was removed, allowing all Hawaiians to possess this unique wood.

Koa bowl 2 Horizon Guest House Hawaii Big Island
Classic Hawaii bowl or umeke

Similar to black walnut and known for its hardness and extraordinary beauty, the Hawaiians found a wide range of uses for koa, from canoes to household dishes and utensils. When malihini settlers arrived, they discovered that it is also a ‘tonewood’ and could be used to make stringed instruments, such as the ukulele.

Koa Pen Horizon Guest House Hawaii Big Island
Curly koa ball point pen

Koa trees can attain a height of 50-75 feet and a trunk circumference of 20 feet. They are one of the fastest-growing Hawaiian trees, capable of reaching 20-30 feet in five years.

Koa wood Horizon B&B Hawaii
Detail of fine-grained koa

Ideally adapted to volcanic conditions, the larger Hawaiian islands supported huge forests of magnificent koa trees. However, the introduction of cattle, and the resulting clearance of huge swaths for pastures, severely reduced it’s habitat.

Koa trees are not endangered and recent restrictions on cutting, and protecting the seedlings from grazing cattle, sheep, and goats, have increased its population.

BUT! The only koa that can be harvested are dead or decaying koa trees on public lands.

Koa wood Horizon Guest House Hawaii
Headboard, part of 4-poster bed patterned on King Kamehameha’s bed

It can take more than 25 years before a seedling grows into a tree large enough to be useful. In the meantime, it’s a premium wood selling for as much as $150/board. A fine piece of koa furniture, such as a dining table will set you back as much as a small car. There are several galleries on the Big Island that showcase koa pieces, Hawaii Treasure Mill and Harbor Gallery among others.

Quilt koa Horizon Guest House Hawaii Big Island
Quilted bedspread in koa leaf pattern by Sig Zane
Koa bowl Horizon Guest House Kona Coast Hawaii
Curly Koa
Author: Angus Meek

Essential Big Island: Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau Place of Refuge

Essential Big Island is a series of blogs focused on sites or attractions that are a must-see for any visitor to the island.

Pu’uhonua o Honaunau, or Place of Refuge, is a National Historical Park of great significance to the island and to the state of Hawaii. From history to architecture, this is absolutely an essential stop on your Hawaii experience!

Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park is located in South Kona. Take Mamalahoa Highway (Hwy. 11) to Ke Ala o Keawe Road (Hwy. 160) – between mile markers 103 and 104 (the Honaunau Post Office is on the corner). Follow Hwy. 160 all the way down to the entrance at the bottom of the hill. The park is open daily 8:30am-4:30pm. Make sure you pick up a free brochure just outside the gift shop before you enter the park. The brochure includes a detailed, easy-to-follow map of the park. 

There is plenty of parking inside the park and a well-stocked gift shop.

What happened at Place of Refuge?

Kapu, or the laws that Hawaiians adhered too, could be violated in a number of different ways. These included when a woman eats with a man, a fish is caught out of season, or even when a commoner’s shadow falls on an ali’i.

Penalties for these types of crimes were harsh. You could face the death penalty, in which case your only recourse was to escape your captors on foot, find your way to the coast, and then swim to the Place of Refuge (the area of land bordered by the Great Wall and the edge of the coastline). Once there you could seek to be absolved by the priest for your crime.

Stop by the amphitheater to watch a film about the park

Royal grounds

The Royal Grounds were the primary gathering place for local chiefs. Here was where they would meet, hold ceremonies and negotiate during wartime. They also took part in games such as kōnane (a board game). Here is also where priests were consulted by the chiefs when guidance was required.  

The Royal Grounds with the Hālau wa’a (canoe house) in the background.

Hālau wa’a (canoe house).

Looking toward Two Step, a popular snorkeling spot.

Kōnane is a strategy game played with black and white pebbles on a stone playing surface called a papamū.

The Great Wall

The Great Wall is up to 12 feet in height, 18 feet wide and over 950 feet in length. Constructed over 400 years ago, the wall was built using dry-set masonry – a technique in which stones are placed without mortar.

Hale o Keawe

In ancient Hawaii the Royal Grounds were believed to be the center of power. The grounds contain the main temple (heiau), above, where the bones of many chiefs (ali’i) were buried. The temple retained a special kind of spiritual power, known as mana

Pahoehoe lava – a type of lava that is characterized by a smooth, billowy surface.
 

The Royal Fish Ponds

These ponds held fish that were to be eaten only by the ali’i.

The 1871 to Ki’ilae Village. The ancient trail was remade in 1871. Take a 2.25 mile hike (roundtrip) that includes ancient sites and volcanic features.

Park Highlights

There’s lots to see at Place of Refuge so we’ve picked some highlights:

  1. The Great Wall – the wall measures 12 feet tall, 18 feet wide and over 950 feet long. 
  2. Hale o Keawe – the main temple housing the bones of the chiefs. The temple is only able to be viewed from the outside, but it’s an impressive structure.
  3. Pu’uhonua – get up close to the Great Wall and then walk into the Pu’uhonua, or Place of Refuge, itself. 
  4. Keone’ele – this is a sheltered cove that was only for the use of the ali’i to land their canoes. Look out – you might see some turtles here.

Place of Refuge was also a sanctuary during other times. During war it was designated a place for children, elders, and those not involved in warfare to seek sanctuary. Kapu was officially ended in 1819 along with the custom of seeking refuge at Pu’uhonua Hōnaunau.

Make sure you visit Pu’uhonua O Hōnaunau on your Big Island adventure. Learn and discover what life was like in ancient Hawaii at one of the best-preserved historic sites in the state.

Author: Angus Meek

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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Ut elit tellus, luctus nec ullamcorper mattis, pulvinar dapibus leo.