Mauna Kea - Horizon Guest House

Essential Big Island: Making the most of Mauna Kea

Posted on August 30, 2023September 4, 2023 by Angus

Essential Big Island is a series of blogs focused on sites or attractions that are a must-see for any visitor to the island.

Visiting the summit of Mauna Kea is spectacular – whether you do so for the sunrise, or the sunset. We recommend the sunset! Make the most of your visit to Mauna Kea with our guide on how to structure your mountain visit.

It’s important to plan out your itinerary carefully. You’ll want to arrive at the Visitor Information Station in good time before sunset. We recommend allowing 30 minutes to drive up from the information station, and about an hour prior to that to acclimatize to the altitude.

For example, if sunset is 7pm and you’re staying in Kona, then you should leave Kona at about 4pm and you’ll arrive at the Visitor Information Station at about 5:30pm. Acclimatize at the information station for about one hour and then leave for the summit at 6:30pm.

It’s always better to allow more time! There are rangers on site who will check to make sure you have enough fuel and are driving a 4WD vehicle before you head up.

Magnificent Mauna Kea

The summit of the mountain was believed to be the meeting place of the Earth Mother, Papahānaumoku, and the Sky Father, Wākea, and Mauna Kea is considered to be sacred.

Ancient Hawaiians tracked the position of the stars and understood how this related to navigation. They are thought to have used observation platforms on the summit containing stones that were used to mark the positions of the rising and setting stars.

The summit of Mauna Kea is 13,796 ft. (4,205 mts) high. But the mountain extends about 19,700 ft. (6000 mts.) below the surface of the water, making it the tallest mountain in the world from its base. The Visitor Information Station is at 9,200 ft. (2,804 mts.) and this is where you will need to acclimatize for about an hour before ascending to the summit.

Mauna Kea telescopes

The summit of the mountain contains almost perfect conditions for viewing the stars. These include dry clear air, low temperatures, low turbulence, excellent visibility, and almost no light pollution.

A Trip to the summit

First, you’ll need a 4WD vehicle. If not, there are some great tours available. Then, check the conditions on the mountain by calling (808) 935 6268. There’s a pre-recorded message of the conditions and any warnings. Then you’re good to go!

Start off your journey to the summit of Mauna Kea like any good road trip – with snacks, or even better, a complete meal. We set off on a weekday after stopping at Safeway for supplies.

We recommend picking up a light to-go meal that travels well. Take a cooler if you can. Safeway in Kona has a great selection of ready-made meals – including salads, sandwiches and sushi.

You might crave sugar at high altitude – we recommend bringing some dark chocolate!

The road out of Kona. Make sure you’ve packed warm clothes, including jackets. If you think you might struggle at high altitude you can purchase small bottles of oxygen from Longs Drug Store (CVS). We took a couple of bottle just in case.

On the Saddle Road heading to the mountain.

Don’t forget there’s a restroom stop on the way to the mountain. The Gilbert Kahele Recreation Area is located about 15 minutes before the Visitor Information Station (there are often lines at the bathroom at the Information Station, so we recommend stopping here if you need to).

It’s a beautiful scenic drive up to the Visitor Information Station.

The Visitor Information Station with the summit of Mauna Kea in the distance. The station includes information about the mountain and a small gift shop.

Dormitories that house the support staff for the telescopes are located near the information station.

Time to eat our to-go meals. Everything tastes better at altitude – especially chocolate!

You might see some local wildlife like this pheasant.

The bulk of the road from the information station to the summit is unpaved. Hang on, it can get a little bumpy! But the spectacular views of the Mars-like landscape are worth it.

The last section of the road is actually paved. The summit is close!

Just in time for sunset. Take care when you get out of the car – the high altitude affects everyone differently.

Make sure to check out the view in the other direction. The mountain casts an incredible shadow.

You won’t be able to stay up on the mountain much longer than 30 minutes after sunset. The rangers like to get everyone down relatively quickly in order to reduce light pollution from car headlights. It also makes for an easier drive back home if you can avoid the line of traffic back down the mountain.

The summit of Mauna Kea is an absolute must-visit attraction. If you haven’t rented a 4WD vehicle then it is worth booking a tour (they’ll pick you up and drop you back in Kona).

Don’t forget you can spend more time after sunset at the Visitor Information Station (the gift shop stays open until 9pm) to simply gaze at the amazing night sky!

Author: Angus Meek

4WD or 2WD? What to rent on the Big Island

Posted on December 12, 2019January 10, 2020 by Angus

Not sure what car to rent on the Big Island? Confused over whether to rent a Jeep or a convertible? We take a look at the options and tell you what you need to know.

Big Island rentals

Renting a car while staying on the Big Island of Hawaii is essential in order to take advantage of everything the island has to offer. While it is possible to do without a car if you intend to stay at a resort for the entirety of your vacation, we thoroughly recommend hiring a car to make the most of your Big Island experience.

All of the national car rental companies operate out of Kona and Hilo international airports. There are also some rental car locations in Kailua-Kona as well as at the resorts north of Kona in Waikoloa.

4WD or 2WD?

Trying to decide between a 4WD or a 2WD rental vehicle depends on what you might do on the island and whether you want to feel the wind in your hair!

4WD

PROS:

Easy access to everywhere on the island including Green Sand Beach and Waipio Valley – where 4WDs are mandatory (for Mauna Kea – see details in the next section).
Fun to drive

CONS:

More expensive
Functional, but the tradeoff is often less comfort

2WD

PROS:

Larger range of cars to choose from – and more fun if you choose a convertible!
Cheaper

CONS:

You won’t be able to go everywhere the 4WD can
With the top down on your convertible take care in the sun and also watch out for rain showers – they can appear and disappear on the island quickly.

Getting up Mauna Kea

Access to the summit is currently closed due to protest action – for more detail on what’s going on check out our blog post https://horizonguesthouse.com/2019/11/13/whats-going-on-with-mauna-kea/

The bad news is that even when access is restored you will need a 4WD to reach the summit and most car rental agencies will not allow you take a car any farther than the visitor center. Your options are to either join a tour to experience the summit, or to rent a 4WD from Harpers Car Rentals – the only car rental agency that allows its 4WD rentals to traverse the Saddle Road to the summit.

Do I need to book early?

It can pay to book early during peak holiday season (between Christmas and New Year) and also during events that draw a lot of visitors to the island, in particular the Merrie Monarch festival (a famous hula competition) in mid-April and the Ironman Triathlon (October 10, 2020). Don’t be caught out – make sure you book early if you’re on the island during these periods.

To make a reservation at Horizon Guest House click the Book Now button below.

Author: Angus Meek

What’s going on with Mauna Kea?

Posted on November 13, 2019April 15, 2020 by Angus

The summit of Mauna Kea is a favorite tourist attraction, either to see a spectacular sunrise or sunset, or to stop by the visitors’ center to make use of the free telescopes to view the night sky on clear nights, as well as listen to an informative lecture on the Milky Way, with a guided laser pointer.

However, access to the summit of Mauna Kea has been blocked since July 2019 due to protest action over the proposed construction of the Thirty Meter Telescope (TMT). [Update 03/15/2020 – COVID-19 update. For more details see below].

So, what’s really going on with Mauna Kea? We decided to take a look at what’s happening.

Why is Mauna Kea so special?

Mauna Kea is considered the point of origin of the Hawaiian people. The summit of the mountain was the meeting place of the Earth Mother, Papahānaumoku, and the Sky Father, Wākea. The Hawaiian people are believed to be direct descendents from this union. For this reason Mauna Kea is considered to be sacred (kapu) ground.

There are many altars (lepa) on the mountain that pay homage to gods and goddesses (akua) as well as other important burial and ceremonial sites. Recently, members of the Royal Order of Kamehameha, were involved in building a ceremonial site (lele), with an area for equinox and solstice rituals. These were intended to echo the historical Hawaiian structures used in the same way. In the past these may have been used to measure an astronomical effect called the precession of the equinoxes. This involved understanding the position of the stars in relation to the movement of the earth’s axis. Ancient Hawaiians understood the importance of tracking the position of the stars and how this related to navigation.

It is also believed that ancient Hawaiians used observation platforms, containing stones marking the positions of the rising and setting stars, on the summit of Mauna Kea.

It’s important to remember that ancient Hawaiian traditions are interconnected and exist on a continuum. This means that whether it’s oceanic navigation or following the seasons, the Hawaiian people see connections between themselves as fundamentally linked with the connections between the earth and the sky.

Why is the summit of Mauna Kea a good location for telescopes?

The summit of the mountain provides a number of perfect conditions for viewing the stars. It has dry clear air, low temperatures, very little turbulence, great visibility, and low light pollution.

What is the history of Mauna Kea?

Mauna Kea has a complicated land use history. It is part-crown land – those lands belonging to the former king of the Hawaiian Kingdom (Kamehameha), and part-conservation lands.

Despite this dual ownership there are currently 13 telescopes on the summit of Mauna Kea. Telescopes have been a fixture on the summit since the first was constructed in the late 1960s. A large number of these were built without sufficient permits and without the support of the local community. Some of these telescopes are in use while others have been abandoned and remain unused. The removal of some of the abandoned telescopes was a condition of the TMT getting the go-ahead.

The $1.4 billion TMT was first due to be built over four years ago but was delayed by court action. Construction was finally approved in October 2018.

How have the telescopes affected the ecology of Mauna Kea?

The mountain has unique biogeoclimatic zones as well as a freshwater spring that provides water to the Big Island. There have been major concerns over waste management, including the leakage of sewage into the environment from telescope facilities, and mercury spills. These legacy issues were raised prior to the building of new telescopes but have, as yet, not been addressed.

What is the Thirty Meter Telescope (TMT)?

If built, the Thirty Meter Telescope (TMT) will be 18 stories high, 9 stories into the ground and cover 5 acres of land. Even though an environmental impact report by the University of Hawai’i declared that the telescope would ‘be the most environmentally sensitive telescope ever built on Mauna Kea’, the protestors believe there is a conflict of interest due to the University’s involvement with the TMT. This has cast significant doubt over the accuracy of the report. The unclear economic motives of some politicians supporting construction of the TMT have also muddied the waters.

Why is the TMT so important?

Once operational, the TMT will be an enormously powerful telescope and will have the ability to image atmospheres on exoplanets and even take images of galaxies as they begin to form.

When did the protests begin?

In July 2019, after it was announced that construction would begin on the TMT, a small group of protestors set up camp at the base of Mauna Kea and blocked the road to the summit.

The protest site was named a Pu’u Honua (sanctuary) and kapu aloha (a state of love and respect) was instituted. After some initial arrests and publicity, the numbers swelled, and 500 protestors turned into thousands. Currently it’s a self-sustaining community, named Pu’uhonua o Pu’uhuluhulu (Fuzzy Mountain Sanctuary after the hill facing Mauna Kea) and the protestors consider themselves to be the Mauna Kea protectors.

Can’t they build the TMT somewhere else?

Yes, they can. The TMT project manager has confirmed another location in the Canary Islands would be perfectly acceptable and does not have the same problematic environmental and cultural impacts as the Mauna Kea location.

What happens next?

The situation remains a stand-off, with more court action pending. The best solution is to work to preserve Hawaiian culture, rather than to neglect it, and locate the telescope in a much less contentious location. Perhaps the issues raised by this protest can result in a plan of action to undo some of the damage that has already occurred on the summit.

Mauna Kea is a precious part of Hawaiian culture. Recognition of its importance is key to the preservation and protection of the summit for future generations.

What can you do?

Sign the change petition calling for an immediate halt to the construction of the TMT here

Find out more about the Mauna Protectors www.puuhuluhulu.com and follow them on Instagram Puʻuhonua o Puʻuhuluhulu

Updates

March, 2020. On March 15 the visitor center closed due to COVID-19. The mountain remains open to the public.

November, 2019. A work permit has been issued that allows the TMT partners to build the TMT in the Canary Islands. However, no decision has been made and the Mauna Kea site remains their preferred option.

December, 2019. As of Saturday 28th December the summit road to Mauna Kea is now open. The Mauna Kea protectors agreed to allow access after Mayor Harry Kim assured them that the TMT would not begin construction until the end of February. The protectors will continue to occupy the adjacent land. At this stage protest action is likely to resume beyond February as no resolution as been reached.

And don't forget...

There’s still plenty to enjoy and experience on the Big Island! Make a booking at Horizon B&B and make your stay on the Kona Coast unforgettable. To book now fill out our reservation request form (click the Book Now button below) or call us on 808 938 7822

References

Brestovansky, M. (2019). TMT, Canary Islands Reach Land Agreement. Retrieved from https://www.westhawaiitoday.com/2019/11/20/hawaii-news/tmt-canary-islands-reach-land-agreement/

Huth, J.E. (2019). The Thirty Meter Telescope Can Show Us the Universe. But at What Cost? Retrieved from https://www.nytimes.com/2019/11/06/opinion/mauna-kea-telescope.html

Richardson, M. (2019). As Promised, TMT Protestors Move Tent Blocking Mauna Kea Access Road. Retrieved from https://www.hawaiinewsnow.com/2019/12/28/moving-day-mauna-kea-after-temporary-truce-announced/

Richardson, M. (2019). As Temps Drop at Mauna Kea, Protestors Hunker Down For a Long Winter. Retrieved from https://www.hawaiinewsnow.com/2019/11/09/how-encampment-base-mauna-kea-has-changed-over-months/

Sanchez, N. (2019). Mauna Kea, What It Is, Why It Is Happening, and Why We All Should Be Paying Attention. Retrieved from https://www.resilience.org/stories/2019-08-15/mauna-kea-what-it-is-why-it-is-happening-and-why-we-all-should-be-paying-attention/

Author: Angus Meek

Top 5 must-see sights on the Big Island

Posted on July 28, 2019November 23, 2019 by Angus

1. Snorkel at Kealakekua Bay & Two Steps

Snorkel both or just one – both are fantastic. Kealakekua Bay is one of the best places to snorkel in Hawaii. An easy drive from Horizon Guest House to either hike down to the Captain Cook monument and snorkel, or make a day of it on a commercial boat such as the Fair Wind snorkel cruise.

Just arrived and want to get in the water straight away? Two Steps is only minutes from Horizon Guest House. We have snorkels and masks on hand for you to use and you’ll be swimming with yellow tangs in no time.

Easy for beginners Two Steps is so-named because of the natural rock steps used to access the water.

Tip: Don’t forget to visit Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park (translated as Place of Refuge) on the left side of the bay.

2. Volcanoes National Park

Less than 1.5 hours away Hawaii Volcanoes National Park contains some of the most unique geological, biological, and cultural landscapes in the world, including the summits of two of the world’s most active volcanoes – Kilauea and Mauna Loa.

We recommend you make the visitor center your first stop on arrival to find out how active the volcanoes are and for the latest tips on the best vantage point. Whether it’s a crater rim drive and a stop at the Jagger Museum, or a serious hike on the newly re-opened (July 2019) trail in the Napau Crater area, there’s a lot to see and plenty happening at the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

Tip: Get there early and do the summit tour before 10am or after 3pm to avoid the crowds.

3. Mauna Kea

Go any time of day but to really experience the wonder of Mauna Kea it’s best to time your visit at dusk to enjoy the amazing sunset and then, on a clear night, the starry night sky! You’ll need to stop at the Visitor Information Station at 9,200 ft. to not only check the status of the summit but most importantly to adjust to the change in altitude – that’s right, being able to drive from sea level to the summit at 14,000 ft. in 2 hours means it’s important to acclimatize.

Make sure you allow enough time to get there – check with Clem on the timing and how to work it in to your day out – the summit opens half an hour before sunrise and closes half an hour after sunset. A stop to stargaze at the Visitor Information Station is a must – local volunteer astronomers set up telescopes outside of the station. Everyone gets the chance to use them for free.

Tip: Don’t forget your jacket! It gets cold up there, so warm clothes are a must – we have jackets on hand if you need one.

4. Waipi’o Valley

They filmed the end of the movie Waterworld here and when you visit it’ll feel like stepping into another world. Meaning curved water in Hawaiian, Waipi’o Valley is a magical place which can be enjoyed from the jaw-dropping scenic lookout or you can explore the valley on foot, or with a guided tour.

Hike into the valley and down to the black sand beach and back in less than seven miles. For the more adventurous try the Muliwai Trail on the other side of the valley – you’ll need to camp out for this one.

Whether it’s the wild horses, pristine waterfalls, or the wild black sand beach, it’s worth making Waipi’o Valley a stop on your Big Island itinerary.

Tip: Parking is fairly limited, so either come early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the crowd.

5. Hāpuna Beach

White sand beach, turquoise water – it’s the quintessential Hawaiian beach and it’s here on the Big Island. An easy drive from Horizon Guest House Hāpuna beach is half a mile long, often sun-drenched, and is shaded with trees and a picnic pavilion.

Tip: Arrive early to find a good park and a shaded spot on the beach.

5 ½. Circle the Big Island

So we cheated – just a tiny bit. It’s hard to squeeze the best into a top 5 and your trip to the Big Island wouldn’t be complete without a road trip around the island. Check with Clem on his itinerary recommendations and how to make it work best with your stay.

To make a booking click the Book Now button below or phone us on 808 938 7822

Author: Angus Meek

Top of The World

Posted on December 1, 2016November 3, 2019 by Angus

One of the most interesting things about the Big Island is the diversity of geology. Drove up to the top of Mauna Kea [13,800′] the other day to enjoy a sunset and then spend some time at the visitor’s center and their wonderful presentation of the night sky. Numerous telescope are set up and a University of Hawaii student presents that night’s events.

The photo is looking west towards the Keck and Subaru telescopes with the Gemini, silver domed telescope to the right. The tip of Maui is just barely visible in the distance.

Ready to book? Click the book now button below to make a reservation.